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DIAMONDS
Your Guide to Buying Diamond Rings
All
About Diamond Engagement and Wedding Rings
Engagement
Ring Guide
The classic engagement ring is composed of three parts, a diamond, a
setting and the band. For the best value, find the setting she'll love,
then devote the remainder of your budget to a beautiful, certified
diamond.
How much should I spend?
The two-months salary convention is a common starting point, but you
have to operate within your overall budget. Remember however that this
purchase could last a lifetime.
Diamond
Prices
$125 - $500
This is the minimum you can expect to spend for a diamond engagement
ring.
Carat Weight: 0.15 - 0.25
Diamond Quality: Unknown (no AGS/GIA certificate)
Setting: 10-14K gold (white or yellow)
$500 - $750
Similar to the $125 - $500 range with slightly larger stones and the
occasional 18K setting.
Carat Weight: 0.20 - 0.37
Diamond Quality: Unknown (no AGS/GIA certificate)
Setting: 10-14K gold (white or yellow); occasionally 18K gold
$750 - $1,000
This is the range where you start to see value for your diamond
dollars. The stones are still on the small end of the scale, but you
can find AGS/GIA certified stones (and thereby know the value of what
you are buying). Additionally, you can find 18K gold settings and
platinum settings.
Carat Weight: 0.30 - 0.5
Diamond Quality: Varied.
Setting: 14-18K gold (white or yellow), Platinum
$1,000 - $2,000
High quality stones in the 0.30 - 0.57 range, mid- to high quality
stones in the 0.58 - 0.75 range. AGS/GIA certified stones available, as
well as 18K gold settings and platinum settings.
Carat Weight: 0.30 - 0.75
Diamond Quality: Varied.
Setting: 14-18K gold (white or yellow), Platinum
$2,000 - $3,500
Absolutely exquisite quality diamonds in the low carat end of this
range, but use caution when considering the larger stones. Make sure
you are familiar with the "Four Cs" of diamond quality before
purchasing. The 1-carat stones in this price range often have one or
more of the following: visible inclusions (flaws), mediocre color
quality ("faint yellow"), and/or a lower grade "cut" (which affects the
"brilliance" of the diamond).
Carat Weight: 0.40 - 1.00
Diamond Quality: Varied.
Setting: 14-18K gold (white or yellow), Platinum
$3,500 - $5,000
This is the lowest price range where you can reasonably expect to find
some nice quality 1-carat stones. The smaller stones in this range will
generally be of greater value and quality, but you can find some
"lovely-to-the-eye" 1-carat diamonds.
Carat Weight: 0.50 - 1.50
Diamond Quality: Varied.
Setting: 18K gold (white or yellow), Platinum
$5,000 - $7,500
Very nice quality diamonds in the low carat end (0.80 - 1.0) of this
range, but use caution when considering the larger stones. Make sure
you are familiar with the "Four Cs" of diamond quality before
purchasing. The 2-carat stones in this price range often have one or
more of the following: visible inclusions (flaws), mediocre color
quality ("faint yellow"), and/or a lower grade "cut" (which affects the
"brilliance" of the diamond).
Carat Weight: 0.80 - 2.00
Diamond Quality: Varied.
Setting: 18K gold (white or yellow), Platinum
$7,500 - $10,000
You can find some spectacular diamonds in this price range -- big and
beautiful. The best value is generally found in the 1.00 - 1.50 carat
range. You'll find less spectacular, but still absolutely lovely
diamonds in the 1.51 - 1.75 carat range. The 1.76 - 2.50 carat stones
in this price range often have one or more of the following: visible
inclusions (flaws), mediocre color quality ("faint yellow"), and/or a
lower grade "cut" (which affects the "brilliance" of the diamond).
Carat Weight: 1.00 - 2.50
Diamond Quality: Varied.
Setting: 18K gold (white or yellow), Platinum
$10,000 - $15,000
This is the lowest price range where you can reasonably expect to find
some nice quality 2-carat stones (and the 1-carat stones in this price
range will stir the heart of the toughest critic). The smaller stones
in this range will generally be of greater value and quality, but you
can find some "lovely-to-the-eye" 2-carat diamonds.
The 2.20 - 3.00
carat stones in this price range often have one or more of the
following: visible inclusions (flaws), mediocre color quality ("faint
yellow"), and/or a lower grade "cut" (which affects the "brilliance" of
the diamond).
NOTE: While you can expect to find a varied selection of up to 2.8
carat stones, greater carat weights are less abundant and you will have
a relatively small number of diamonds from which to choose.
Carat Weight: 1.00 - 3.00
Diamond Quality: Varied.
Setting: 18K gold (white or yellow), Platinum
$15,000 - $20,000
The one carat diamonds in this price range tend to be the "Best of the
Best," and are generally diamonds with the highest possible grade in
one or more of the following: color, cut, and clarity. You can also
expect to find very nice quality stones up to 2.50 carats.
The 2.51 -
3.00 carat stones in this price range often have one or more of the
following: visible inclusions (flaws), mediocre color quality ("faint
yellow"), and/or a lower grade "cut" (which affects the "brilliance" of
the diamond).
NOTE: While you can expect to find a varied selection of up to 2.8
carat stones, greater carat weights are less abundant and you will have
a relatively small number of diamonds from which to choose.
Carat Weight: 1.00 - 3.00
Diamond Quality: Varied.
Setting: 18K gold (white or yellow), Platinum
$20,000 - $30,000
In this price range, you can expect to find excellent quality stones up
to 2.80 carats. The 2.81 - 3.00 carat stones in this price range often
have one or more of the following: visible inclusions (flaws), mediocre
color quality ("faint yellow"), and/or a lower grade "cut" (which
affects the "brilliance" of the diamond).
NOTE: While you can expect to find a varied selection of up to 2.8
carat stones, greater carat weights are less abundant and you will have
a relatively small number of diamonds from which to choose in each
price range.
Carat Weight: 1.70 - 3.00
Diamond Quality: Varied.
Setting: 18K gold (white or yellow), Platinum
$30,000 - $60,000
In this price range, you can expect to find excellent quality stones up
to 2.80 carats.
NOTE: While you can expect to find a varied selection of up to 2.8
carat stones, greater carat weights are less abundant and you will have
a relatively small number of diamonds from which to choose in each
price range.
Carat Weight: 2.00 - 3.00
Diamond Quality: Varied.
Setting: 18K gold (white or yellow), Platinum
$60,000 and up
Diamonds in this price range tend to be greater than 3-carats (though
not always) and will require a customized setting (standard settings
generally accommodate up to three carats).
Choosing
the right ring.
You partner could wear this ring for the rest of their life, so you
want to ensure they like it. Whether you want your proposal to be a
surprise, or to involve your partner in the decision, here are the
decisions you'll need to make:
Gold
or
Platinum?
If
you're unsure what
ring metal to choose, consider the differences between 18K gold and
platinum:
Platinum:
the strongest, most pure metal. It will last a lifetime.
* More expensive than Gold
* Platinum jewelry is composed of 90-95% pure platinum. It is more rare
than gold
* Strongest jewelry metal
* Resistant to damage
* Won't wear away
* Develops a satin finish
* Difficult to polish, repair
* Won't tarnish
Platinum is a white metal (looking similar to silver), but unlike gold
it is used in jewelry in almost its pure form (approximately 95% pure).
The other 5% is usually made from other metals such as gold, nickel,
iridium, palladium, rhodium, or ruthenium. Platinum does not need to be
Rhodium plated like white gold, as it is extremely resilient. In fact,
its durability is what makes Platinum so popular. It is so strong that
it doesn't splinter or whittle away like other metals, and will not
need to be reinforced to make it stronger.
Platinum is a very rare, pure and highly durable precious metal. With
one platinum mine for every 10 gold mines in the world, it is easy to
understand why the laws of supply and demand have made platinum a more
expensive metal option than gold. It's comparitive purity is another
reason its price is higher than gold. In most parts of the world,
platinum must have a 95% platinum composition for it to be considered
platinum while gold must be only 75% pure gold to be labelled 18K. The
density of the metal content in platinum makes it a highly durable,
wearable, strong band or setting choice.
While it is the strongest of jewelry metals, platinum can still scratch
with everyday wear. This produces sheen unique to platinum, called a
patina. Many people prefer this finish. Those who prefer the shiny
reflective look need only polish their jewelry to return it to its
original lustre.
Care
Platinum requires little care - a soft bristled brush with a solution
of soap and water is all that is needed to maintain the metal's lustre.
Price
Platinum usually costs roughly 2-4 times as much as the same piece of
jewelry made in gold. This is due to the extreme heat and techniques
necessary for its manufacture, as well as its density. The specific
gravity of platinum is 21.5, which is somewhat heavier than gold, and
so a platinum ring will feel heavier than an 18ct gold ring.
Gold:
the most common
engagement ring setting.
* Mixed with metal alloys to give it strength
* Softer, malleable metal
* More easily damaged
* Easy to polish, repair
* Won't tarnish
Gold is naturally yellow in color and will not tarnish, corrode or rust
and is the most malleable of all metals. Pure gold is defined as 24
carat, and is too soft for most jewelry uses, so it is alloyed (mixed)
with other metals to alter its properties, strength and color.
The purity of gold is measured in (karats) carats, which are expressed
in 24ths. Therefore, 24-carat gold is pure, while 12-carat gold is 50%
gold and 50% alloy.
24 Carat: This is pure gold and is too soft for jewelry
22 Carat: 91.7% gold and probably too soft for jewelry
18 Carat: 75% gold and used for fine jewelry
14 Carat: 58.3% gold and used for good quality jewelry
12 Carat: 50% gold and used for jewelry of a fair quality
9 Carat: 37.5% gold.
Do not confuse metal carat with diamond carat; diamond carat refers to
the weight of a diamond, while metal carat (karat or K) means the
purity of the gold.
Care
Keep gold jewelry away from chemicals and cleaning fluids to reduce
daily scratches and prolong its lustre. Wash the jewelry gently with a
soft-bristled brush using a solution of detergent-free soap and warm
water. Store gold pieces separately in their original boxes or soft
cloth bags to protect them from the elements.
Pricing
A point to remember is that the higher the percentage of gold, the
higher the price.
White
Gold
White gold is an alloy of gold and some white metals such as nickel,
silver and palladium. Yellow gold and white gold are very similar and
tend to have the same alloy percentages. The only difference is the
other metals used.
An example:
18-carat yellow gold and 18-carat white gold are both made from 75%
gold and 25% other metals. The difference between the two metals lies
only in the alloy. The yellow gold is alloyed with colored metals such
as copper and zinc. The white gold is alloyed with white metals such as
nickel and silver.
White Gold is then Rhodium plated to give it its final shine. Although
this is very effective it will eventually rub off and need replating.
What gives white gold its white color is the fact that, in the
final stages of its manufacturing, it is plated with rhodium, a
shiny hard and durable white metal. (In time, the
plating may wear and this is why it is not
unusual to hear of individuals re-plating their white
gold rings every 12 - 18 months, depending on wear). White gold can
enhance colorless diamonds while the reflection of
yellow gold can help mask the tint of yellowish diamonds by making
the diamond look brighter.
Platinum
or White Gold?
Platinum |
White
Gold |
Far more expensive
than white gold
(i.e up to three times more
expensive as of 2005) |
Much less expensive
than platinum |
Weighs heavier than
white gold |
Lighter weight than
platinum |
Naturally white toned |
Needs to be rhodium
plated to be white |
Density is virtually
always higher than white
gold |
Less metal purity,
therefore less
dense than platinum |
More resistant to
abrasions than
white gold |
Less resistant to
scratches than
platinum, more resistant than
yellow gold |
Over time, platinum
develops
a natural patina that
can be polished if a high gloss look is preferred |
In time, white gold
often needs to be
re-plated |
Choosing
the right setting for your diamond
An engagement ring consists of three things, the band, the setting and
the gem. The band encircles your finger and is usually gold, white gold
or platinum. Attached to the top of the band is the setting. The
setting is the part that holds the gem or gems. The setting can be 4
prongs or 6 prongs to hold the gem or can be more complex, holding
multiple gems. The gem is usually a diamond but can be other stones.
Together, the band, setting and gem comprise the ring. You can choose
which metals you want and there are lots of choices for settings.
There are many different settings available and it can be hard to
choose.
Diamond
Engagement Ring
Styles
The three most common engagement ring styles to choose from are
solitaire, those with sidestones or those
with matching bands.
|
Solitaire Engagement
Rings -
Solitaires are the ring type sold most often. (It is estimated over two
thirds of the engagement rings sold in North America are solitaire). |
Engagement Rings with
Sidestones - In
rings with sidestones, one center stone is generally surrounded by two
or more complementary stones. |
Engagement Rings with
Matching Bands
- The metals of the rings and the bands are generally the same. What is
different is the number and design of the stones in each. |
Setting
Styles for Diamond Engagement Rings
The most common setting styles for diamond engagement rings and the
pros and cons of each are:
Bar
- Metal bars hold the loose diamonds in a channel-like setting across a
ring with the diamonds on each end of the channel being exposed.
Advantages: delivers a streamlined look. The center diamonds' girdles
are protected
Disadvantages: the outer diamonds are not as well protected
Bezel
(or Tube) - The Metal is formed
to fit completely or partially around the diamonds, cupping it into
place. Arguably the second most common setting.
Advantages:diamond is well protected; holds diamonds very securely;
highlights the diamond's circumference, making it appear larger
Disadvantages: usually takes more time and is more expensive than prong
or pave settings
Channel
- Often used for bands or to provide an accent to center stones, the
diamonds are suspended in a grooved channel of vertical walls. Unlike
the bar setting, there is no metal separating the stones.
Advantages: the diamond's girdle is protected; creates a streamlined
look
Disadvantages: typically more expensive than a prong setting
Invisible
- The diamond is set in a groove without visible prongs.
Advantages: maximizes the diamond's brilliance because no metal blocks
light from going into it; profiles the most diamond out of all the
styles
Disadvantages: is the most expensive setting type due to the expertise
required to do it; is difficult to find someone with the skills to
carry out repairs the diamond, if not set well, is less secure
Pave
(or Bead) - Tiny stones are
embedded to look like the piece is paved with loose diamonds.
Advantages:typically offers better protection for the diamonds than
prong settings; provides a good amount of design freedom, can make
stone appear larger
Disadvantages: may not be as secure as some other settings; is a bit
risky in terms of damage to the stones
Six
prong Solitaire Prong - Several
prongs (usually 4 or 6) hold the diamonds to let light pass through
without interference. Prong is the most common type of setting.
Advantages: relatively quick to do, therefore, less expensive; more of
the diamond is visible; easy to clean; sturdy & secure
Disadvantages: can get caught in clothing & hair if too high;
with most of the girdle open, protection of the diamond is less
Tips
How do you know if she'll like the ring if she doesn't pick it out?
Consider her tastes and lifestyle.
* Take a good look at the color of jewelry your partner wears. What
color is the metal?
* Is she very active or not used to wearing jewelry? If so, consider a
cathedral or contour setting, which will protect a diamond from rough
treatment.
Engagements are rarely an out-of-the-blue surprise, so it is common to
discuss engagement ring choices with your partner. The only way to
ensure you find a ring that will match her taste and style is to shop
for a ring together.
Choosing the
right diamond
An engagement diamond may be the biggest purchase you've ever made. And
with the right information, you'll be able to spend your budget on the
diamond qualities that are most important to you.
To start, find out what shape she likes. You can choose from round,
oval, princess-cut, emerald-cut, Asscher-cut, marquise-cut,
radiant-cut, pear-shaped, and heart-shaped diamonds. The majority of
diamond engagement rings today are set with a round diamond. And most
of the remaining rings are set with princess-cut diamonds.
Once you have decided on a shape the qualities are important. Please
use the information here
to help you make the right decision.
Wedding
Ring Guide
Choosing a wedding ring does not have to be as challenging as finding
the perfect engagement ring. This guide details all you'll need to know
about choosing women's and men's wedding bands.
Some rings are designed to fit together, side-by-side. Many women like
the symmetry of two matching rings, with diamonds of the same size and
shape, or just the same type of metal.
She may choose a ring other than the one designed to match her
engagement ring. This creates a unique look that is becoming popular.
Men have a few simple choices. He can select a ring thickness, choose
between platinum and 18k gold, and choose a ring set with diamonds or
one with a unique design. Some couples choose matching men's and
women's wedding rings. To be sure you'll enjoy your rings for years to
come, just choose rings that you love.
Men's Platinum
and 18k
Gold Rings
The most popular men's wedding rings are plain metal bands. For an
element of design choose a ring with a subtle design like millgrain or
a diamond set ring.
Earring Guide
Earrings make the perfect gift because they are always the right fit.
The most basic jewelry wardrobe piece, she may leave the house without
a bracelet, but she's almost always wearing earrings.
Most earring styles go with anything, so your gift won't cause her
wardrobe issues. The wide variety of earring types, sizes, and prices
available makes it easy to find the perfect pair for a gift. She'll
remember you every time she wears them.
Studs: Because they're small, stud earrings are easy to wear. They go
as easily with a cocktail dress as they do with jeans. You'll find a
variety of prices.
Hoops: Platinum, 18k gold hoops give a feminine touch, and precious
metals go with anything. For added sparkle, choose a pair with diamonds.
Other styles: You'll find a wide variety of other earring designs that
can specifically fit her style. Choose platinum or 18k gold for a
lasting gift.
Earrings as gifts
Diamond studs are the perfect gift for an important occasion. If she is
more fashionable and follows the trends, give her princess-cut diamond
studs, but if she dresses in classic styles, give round diamond studs.
Even if she has several pairs of earrings already, she'll love to add a
pair of beautiful hoop earrings to her rotation. Most women prefer
either the white metals or yellow gold, so look to her other jewelry to
see what metal she prefers.
Pendant and
Necklace Guide
A necklace or pendant adds style to anything she wears. If you give a
necklace as a gift, you also have a romantic opportunity to put it on
her. A necklace is any type of chain, or length of precious metal or
gems, while a pendant features a single jewel.
Chains: Go with everything. A fine platinum chain in a choker length
will add just a touch of shine. Consider giving her an 18-inch 18ct
gold chain to add an element of visual interest to her wardrobe.
Pendants: A pendant is something she can wear with a dress or jeans.
The simple design of a solitaire pendant allows all the attention to
focus on a beautiful diamond solitaire. Other pendants feature shapes
like a heart, or a cross made of precious metal, diamonds.
Choosing the right length.
When selecting a necklace or pendant, consider that the length will
determine where it will lie on her chest. Remember that longer lengths
accentuate the bust while shorter lengths feature the beautiful lines
of her neck.
16in. Choker length: Just above collarbones. Emphasizes her neckline.
18in. Princess length: Hangs over collarbones. The most common length.
24in. Opera length: Over blouse or dress. A dramatic length.
Necklaces and Pendants as gifts.
If you have a special occasion like a birthday or your first wedding
anniversary, consider a solitaire pendant featuring a diamond. For a
very special occasion like a five- or ten-year anniversary, you might
give a diamond necklace, which are the most beautiful. She'll remember
the occasion every time she wears the gift.
If it's a gift for a fun occasion, like a vacation or a promotion,
consider a pendant featuring an 18ct gold or platinum these are fashion
pieces just for fun.
Bracelet Guide
A bracelet is one jewelry item she will see all the time, so she can
appreciate it often. She also enjoys the feeling of it on her wrist
reminding her of you.
Some bracelets are available in different lengths. So before you
purchase, be sure to measure one of her other bracelets to be sure she
doesn't need a special length.
Bracelets are usually worn on occasions when she isn't working with her
hands. Even when not working, a bracelet's proximity to the hands
causes it to get bumped and banged, so it must be very durable.
ONLINE DIAMOND BUYING
Recommended retailer: Bluenile.com
www.bluenile.com
Bluenile - 800-242-2728 : 888-565-7641
LINKS
www.GIA.edu
www.dvatche.com
KAY Jewelers
Do You Know How To Buy Your Diamond Engagement Ring?
DIAMOND
SHOPPING
Here are recommendations for your safe diamond engagement and wedding
ring shopping:
1. Work with a reputable Jeweler; be it Brick & Mortar or
Internet. Check with your local BBB and the Jewelers Vigilance Committe
(www.jvclegal.org)
2. Know what you're buying. Make sure your diamond has a lab grading
report. The two most stringent, accurate, and consistent diamond
grading labs are the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and the AGS
(Americn Gemological Society). Insist on them.
3. If you're more comfortable shopping with a Brick & Mortar
Jeweler, look at as many diamonds as you can and away from the diamond
counter's high intensity halogen lights which tend to make even the
ugliest darkest diamonds look D-Flawless.
4. If you're shopping with an Internet Diamond vendor, make sure that
they can examine the diamond for you to determine if there are any red
flags you need to know about which would dissuade you from buying the
stone. A great number of Internet Vendors sell of Virtual Diamond (VD)
databases and never see the diamond you're buying. The diamond is
drop-shipped directly to you from the manufacturer.
5. Ask the Internet Vendor to supply you with as much information as
possible, including photo's.
6. Be clear and understand the Vendor's Policies: Payment, Returns,
Upgrades, etc. and any timelines or deadlines that might accompany
these Policies.
7. Ask about and receive any paperwork that comes with the diamond.
8. Stay away from in-house Appraisals. Such Appaisals are inflated,
will cost you undue high insurance Premiums, and is a practice that is
frowned upon and not sanctioned by the reputable National Association
Of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA). Best is to get an evaluation and
Appraisal from an Independent Appraiser that does not work for a
Jewlery store and does not sell their own diamonds and jewelry. Contact
NAJA for a llisting and location of such Appraisers.
Shop Smart. This is a big purchase not only in terms of money but also
in terms of emotional significance.
Who Chooses The Diamond Engagement Ring?
Who influences the selection of your diamond engagement ring.
(Bridal Association of America BAA, and national jeweler official
surveys)
I picked the ring out myself.................17%
My fiancee and I selected it together....28%
I gave guidelines to my fianc'e.............11%
I gave indirect hints to my fiancee.......13%
I had no influence.............................31%
• CARTIER
• TIFFANY
Since 1837, Tiffany & Co. has been the world's
premier jeweler
• VERRAGIO
LASER INSCRIBE YOUR WEDDING VOWS
Wedding rings today are available in a wide range of offerings. You can
almost get anything you want. One option is to laser inscribe your
wedding vows on the inside surface of the ring.
Sample wedding vow:
Groom:
"I take this woman to be my lawful wedded wife, promise to love and
cherish her, in sickness and health, for richer or poorer, for better
or worse, and forsaking all others keep myself only unto her, for so
long as I live."
Bride:
"I take this man to be my lawful wedded husband, promise to love and
cherish him, in sickness and health, for richer or poorer, for better
or worse, and forsaking all others keep myself only unto him, for so
long as I live."
www.applesofgold.com
How to
Buy Gold Jewelry
Pure gold doesn't react with any other elements you might come into
contact with on a daily basis. Gold coins on ships crossing the oceans
hundreds of years ago which sank to the bottom are found today still in
the same condition as when they went down because gold is basically
inert. You can even eat gold in a certain form and it will not harm
you. Gold fillings are ideal in teeth, but expensive. Gold is the
perfect metal for jewelry creations. Gold can be worked into nearly any
shape, including tiny strands that do not break easily. Gold can be
manipulated nearly any way the artisan desires.
Because gold has so many uses and because gold has been a standard of
money for so long all over the world and because gold is relatively
rare, it is expensive in dollar terms. In addition, because gold is
softer than some other metals jewelry is very often not pure gold. A
mix of metals is combined to form an alloy and this mix is shaped into
jewelry. Sometimes people have allergy or staining problems with metals
that are combined with gold, but the gold itself is rarely a problem.
How
Pure Is Your Gold Jewelry?
18K, 14K, or 10K, with the K standing for karat, the system used to
describe the percentage of pure gold an item contains. The higher the
karat number, the higher the percentage of gold in your gold jewelry.
Jewelry is usually marked so you know what amount of gold vs. other
metals are in the item. In the USA and Canada you will see KARAT with a
K but in other parts of the world it is spelled with a C "Carat" just
like diamond carats only the meaning is different.
24K is pure gold. Almost never used because the item would not last as
long as an alloyed item due to scratches from daily wear.
22K gold contains 22 parts gold and 2 parts of one or more additional
metals, making it about 92% gold (91.66).
18K gold contains 18 parts gold and 6 parts of one or more additional
metals, making it 75% gold. High quality gold jewelry is 18K.
14K gold contains 14 parts gold and 10 parts of one or more additional
metals, making it 58.3% gold.
12K gold contains 12 parts gold and 12 parts of one or more additional
metals, making it 50% gold.
10K gold contains 10 parts gold and 14 parts of one or more additional
metals, making it 41.7% gold.
10K gold is the minimum karat that can still be called "gold" in the
United States.
10K gold jewelry is at the bottom of the quality scale.
European
Markings on gold jewelry
European gold jewelry is marked with numbers that indicate their
percentage of gold, such as:
18K gold is marked 750
to indicate 75% gold
14K gold is marked 585
for 58.5%
10K gold is marked 417
for 41.7%
Other Markings on Gold Jewelry
The karat marking on your gold jewelry should be accompanied by a
hallmark or trademark that identifies its maker. The item's country of
origin might also be included.
Why Are Other Metals Mixed With Gold?
You'll find examples of pure gold jewelry, but pure gold is soft and
isn't practical for daily wear. Other metals are mixed with it to make
it more durable (and to lower its cost). Adding other metals to the mix
also allows metallurgists to change the color of gold. Palladium or
nickel can be added to create white gold. Adding copper produces a rose
or pink tint, while silver gives gold a greenish cast. When metals are
added to the gold the result is an alloy, a blended mixture of the
metals. Solid gold is a term that can be used to describe an item
that's at least 10K (in the USA) gold all the way through. Even though
it's a gold alloy--18K, 14K, or anything down to 10K--it can be called
solid gold even though it is not.
When Gold Is Used as a Coating
There are many ways to mechanically apply a coating of gold onto a much
less expensive metal, reducing the item's cost. The thicker the layer
of gold, the less likely it is to wear away easily and expose the metal
underneath.
Gold Filled Jewelry
Newer gold filled items have markings that indicate how much and what
type of gold was used for the layer. A marking that says 1/20 12K G.F.
means that the jewelry is at least 1/20th 12K gold by weight.
Gold Plated Jewelry
The gold layer in gold plated jewelry is typically thinner than the
gold in gold filled jewelry, so it usually wears away more quickly.
Plating is done in different ways. You might see terms such as gold
washed used to describe a very thin layer of gold--one that won't be
very durable.
So What Should You Buy?
Solid gold is durable, so it is a better choice for jewelry you'll wear
regularly. If you have allergies to nickel or other metals, choose
items that have high gold content, such as 18K or 22K gold jewelry.
Gold filled or plated jewelry is suitable for jewelry that you wear
occasionally. Everyday use would eventually diminish the gold layer,
exposing the metal below, which might stain your skin or cause an
allergic reaction. For pieces that will last a lifetime and beyond, buy
the highest quality gold your budget allows.
• Guide
to DIAMOND Buying
• How to tell if a
diamond is real
• How to find your
ring size
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